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High-heel designers may be employed by the shoe manufacturer, or, more likely, are independent designers (sometimes connected to well-known fashion houses) who contract with the manufacturer to produce designs or lines of shoes bearing the designer's name. Designers work very closely with the master shoemaker who oversees the practicality of all designs for the shoe manufacturer. The designer may have an image or style to convey and a particular choice of materials, and the master shoemaker tells the designer what can be made or what production limitations are involved in the design. For example, the height of the heel may be restricted by the overall shape of the shoe or the number of stitches needed to make the shoe may affect its finished appearance (or may be impractical to manufacture). The designer and master shoemaker exchange ideas over the course of several months before they arrive at a satisfactory design.

One shoe is then made as a prototype; it is dissected into its various pieces and parts, and a pattern is made of paper. From the paper original, a master template is made of fiberboard and piped in copper so it will wear well. The fiberboard master represents the average size 8 shoe. From this master, a pantograph (a drawing tool that makes an exact copy of an outline but in a smaller or larger size) is used to outline masters on fiberboard for all other sizes in the range offered by the manufacturer in the new design. Metal dies are made to stamp out pieces in all these sizes, and the assembly line is set up to manufacture the new design. Alternatively, components of designs can be measured and scaled by computer, and the data are used to cut pieces with lasers controlled by the computer. The completed designs and templates are copyrighted and registered by the designer and manufacturer.